Musée d’Orsay

Everyone loves the Musée d’Orsay. It’s somehow not quite as crowded as the Louvre, but it can still get packed. Buy your tickets ahead of time – the line stretches into the sunshine and you’re likely to get burnt waiting.

I’m going to highlight a few of my favorite, but less popular works that are in the Orsay – you know about the Monets and the Reniors and the Van Goghs. And there are some here, too. The stories about the art, or rather the story the art tells, are why I write these.

This is a Toulouse-Lautrec, and it’s just a few lines and a little bit of color. I love the blue around her face, and the spareness that still shows so much atmosphere.

I am always and forever here for a painting of a woman who is done with your bullshit.

This is, I think, a Berthe Morisot painting. There was an exhibit of her work while we were there,nad there was something arresting about her. She wants to get up and dance around the room, but she has to sit here for this painting (maybe because of the man reading behind her?). I like her.

My version of the clock. It’s impossible to get an unblocked version.

I don’t really understand how or why Monet decided to paint a field full of turkeys, but I like the red of their necks combined with the green of the grass.

Gah, the reflections in this photo are terrible. But Bastille Day is festive, no? (I have a vague memory of noticing this painting for the first time when it was at the High Museum in Atlanta, I think?)

Fine, this is the painting from Amèlie, I think. It’s famous and I don’t have a good story about it. Happy people are happy.

This is the painting that, when I was grieving my mom most acutely, finally made me realize I needed therapy. If you ask me, I’ll tell you how.

It’s like the polar bear that I’ve been in love with for years, but an owl instead. It’s the same sculptor.

A great thing about the Orsay is that it’s got all of this art nouveau decor and I love it. It’s so out there and full of nature and it swoops so well. It’s one of my favorite parts of the museum, and almost no one goes there, so it’s easy to get lost looking at all of the crazy decor.

In short: the Orsay is lovely and there’s a lot that isn’t normally featured that’s worth taking the time to look at. If you’re in Paris, you should go.

Musée Rodin

The Rodin Museum is a lovely place in Paris, and it wasn’t too far from our Airbnb. So when we had a couple of hours to spare one morning, it was the perfect place to visit.

The gardens are well and truly amazing. They used to sell garden-only tickets (no longer an option), and it was worth it to bring in a lunch and relax for an hour or two. It’s a proper indoor-outdoor space.

Fierce.

Aristocratic.

Famous.

In all seriousness, Rodin had a thing for hands – there are so many disembodied hands that he sculpted. There’s a great one in the Legion of Honor in San Francisco that we always joke is the Zombie Hand.

But I love that they’re his thing. Everyone needs an obsession, and sculpting realistic hands, with their knuckles and muscles and gnarliness, must have brought him great joy.

There is a story to be written about how this woman got trapped in this block of marble. If you look closely, the marble surrounding her face is all her hair, some braided, some not. It’s just incredible.

I’m a fan of the Rodin Museum and it makes a great stop on a longer tour of the Left Bank.